AlaskaStar's Automotive X-Prize Design, Open Source Project-

[AlaskaStar]

Well, I will start with the system list, and break down each component, and why/ how it works, this post also contains the assembly instructions, modifications and such. More off the shelf parts are preferred, but some have to be made, and I will keep the machining as simple as a Cheap Drill, and a Table Saw, or other CHEAP HAND TOOLS. This is something that will change the way things are done, as I hope that I have MANY people competing against me at the X-Prize, an I hope most are from HERE.

Here we go:

There are EIGHT primary systems that must work together in complete package to make it work, leave one piece out, and the whole process stops.

*Organic Rankine Cycle
*Seebeck/ Peltier Junction Energy transfer
*Battery Controller
*Hydrogen Fuel, On-the-fly conversion (needs less than you think!)
*Micro-boiler, used with heat exchangers to make Rankine Cycle happen
*Electric Heaters
*Solenoid Triggers, and Spool Valves used on Engine Conversion.
*Cooling System, and Interior Comfort Heat and Air Conditioning.

This is External Combustion of Hydrogen, as the primary, Battery and Heater Element Secondary, and Petroleum Fuel, Wood Pellets, or Bio-Diesel/ Ethanol-Methanol as the 'All Else Fails-Last Resort System.'

The Engine/ Organic Rankine Cycle:

The Internal Combustion Engine will have the following components PERMANENTLY REMOVED:

-Cylinder Heads
-Exhaust Manifolds, and Entire Exhaust System
-Intake Manifold, and all Fuel Injection/ Carburetor Related parts
-Ignition System, and related hardware
-Evaporative Emissions System
-Fuel Tank, Pumps, filters and Lines
-Air Filter and Ducting.
-Air Conditioning pump
-Water Pump, Thermostat, and hoses
-Valve-train and Timing Belt/ Chain (UNLESS CAMSHAFT/ DISTRIBUTOR DRIVEN OIL PUMP)

The Engine Compartment should look super empty now, and the engine should look impressively small.

Materials for Engine:

-13mm/ 1" Thick Acrylic Panel-Clear
-New Head Gasket
-Anaerobic Sealant
-Solenoid Valves-Spool Type, 2 per cylinder
-Trigger System, and circuit board for controlling
-Wiring and related Hardware,
-Shorter Cylinder Head BOLTS, and Matching Flat-Washers.

Using New Head Gasket, and pencil, trace outer edge of Head Gasket onto the paper backing attached to the Acrylic panel. Now Trace the Bolt Holes. Drill Bolt Holes THROUGH the Acrylic Panel. Now Cut the outer trace of the Perimeter of the Head Gasket of the Acrylic.

Again place Head gasket onto Acrylic cut-out, align the holes and trace the cylinder bore shapes onto the paper that comes attached to the Acrylic.

Drill TWO holes that can accept a 1" NPT fitting, and using a 1" NPT Thread Tap, Tap these 2 holes in EACH CYLINDER, EQUAL SPACING, and CONFINED WITHING THE BOUNDARY OF THE CYLINDER BORE.

Now you can remove paper from the Acrylic Sheet, But I prefer to leave attached for scratch protection until ready to install.

ENGINE BLOCK PREPARATION:

CLEAN ENGINE. I recommend at this point new MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS, ALL SHAFT SEALS, AND SIDE COVER SEALS (applies to inline engines with tappet covers). Any UNUSED OIL GALLEYS from the CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS, or OTHER attachments (like Balance Shafts) need BLOCKED OFF! This can be achieved on the CAM BEARINGS by pulling, rotating, and re-installing the old bearings.

Now make certain that the engine block doesn't leak when oil pan is installed, and all seals are good, and the seal lands on the crank aren't scored or cut, which may require repair using a product called 'Speedy-Sleeve.'

Piston Rings in the Engine would need replaced with FULL CIRCLE RINGS, much like those used in racing applications that do NOT have an end-gap.

Make CERTAIN that the deck (where the Head bolts to the block) is FLAT- a machine shop can do this for you. I do it by HAND.

CLEAN-CLEAN-CLEAN! This is something that when re-assembling, you will not be getting any dirt on your hands. When I build Transmissions, there is a phrase: Cleanliness is Next to Godliness!

It applies here as well.

After all the engine preparation, using the ANAEROBIC SEALANT, apply the sealant to BOTH SIDES of the HEAD GASKET. Remove the protective paper from the acrylic cylinder head, and install using the shorter bolts and flat-washers, with a torque reading that I am not sure of at this instant in time, I am sure someone out there can help with this.

Someone with Torque guesses please help here.

Next Post will Contain more Information.

No questions at this time.

AlaskaStar

AlaskaStar2000 <AT> Hotmail <DOT> COM

[AlaskaStar]

[AlaskaStar]

[AlaskaStar]

[AlaskaStar]

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[HugeDuallie]

[AlaskaStar]

[biggeorge]

[AlaskaStar]

[biggeorge]

[AlaskaStar]

[AlaskaStar]

Hey,

I had to come up with a solution for the mechanical lag inherent in solenoid operation for my valvetrain, plus I need infinitely variable valve lift and duration.

Solution:

Remove the spring. Huck it in the trash. Replace the spring with 2 Neodymium magnets that are shaped like a flat washer. These magnets repel each other.

Now the magnets will hold the valve closed. To actuate the valve, an electromagnetic coil will be placed ABOVE the top magnet, and energized, with enough force to repel the top magnet overcoming the repelling action of the lower magnet and thereby actuating with incredible speed and now with changes in the wattages and gauss strength of the coil, I can have variable lift, and by changing the pulse-width, I now have the ability to have different duration windows as well.

So now I have a solid state equivalent of the camshaft, lifters, push-rods, and rocker arms. So now with a solid state valve-train, I have but one moving part, the engine's original valve.

Simplicity at it's best.

Moving onward...

AlaskaStar

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[AlaskaStar]