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OUPower.com • View topic - mrgalleria, can you test the Nickel again?

mrgalleria, can you test the Nickel again?

Do you have a project you're working on that doesn't fit into any of the forums above? Please post about it here.

check nickle again

Postby BOBBY R » Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:17 pm

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Postby kevinsatterfield » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:07 pm

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stove top testing

Postby zendog » Sat Aug 26, 2006 2:07 pm

Hi all-

Although we talked about it back at the start of this thread is it only me who finds it quite remarkeable and intiquing that Bill got nearly as good a results running his engine with just boiling nickels in water without adding any of the nitrogen material????
I tried a few stove top tests by boiling different mixes of materials in a zinc coated pipe. Although Bill said it wasn't of much use doing any stove top tests since one couldn't explode the gases produced anyways, I mearly was curious by what amounts of gas might be produced by the various mixes.
So, first I boiled just nickel in water which as expected didn't produce much gas beyond the normal hot water vapor. Then next I had a look what happened with adding nitrogen to the water with the nickel present. I used different nickel sources and different nitrogen sources but in all cases I couldn't produce any noticeable increase in the gas production over what I got just boiling hot water in a zinc coated pipe.
So what I was wondering again was is the fuel economy increase achieved in this set up of Bill and Alaska Star's just from the result of introducing hot water vapors into the fuel mix? After all are there not many people who claim adding water injection into IC engines will result in better performing motors and increased fuel economy?
I haven't any idea myself but then I couldn't get any more gas production using nitrogen while stove top testing. So it got me to wondering again about what effect just adding hot water vapor alone to ones engines might have.
So I (somewhat shamefully) haven't tried this system of Bill's on my own engine yet mostly out of plain laziness but then I also haven't seen the results on the stove top testing to verify what they claim. Perhaps the nickel needs to be heated more than what I was able to produce on the stove and maybe engine exhaust temperatures achieve that, I don't know really. But then Bill said he had pretty nice results without adding the nitrogen, so what happened in that instance I wonder?
So I was wondering if any of you guys who have installed this system on an engine have already or would want to give a try at using only water to see what results you might get?


All The Best,
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nickle plating

Postby nickle989 » Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:58 pm

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Postby dingodog » Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:27 am

Has anyone made any further progress or any results using this nickel process?? Just curious...

D.
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plating

Postby nickle989 » Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:07 pm

I will be conducting some tests very soon .. I am just waiting for a small motor to come and some plating chemicals. Results will be posted.
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Postby Looking In » Wed Sep 20, 2006 11:01 am

Rich (Looking In)
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Postby dingodog » Wed Sep 20, 2006 4:32 pm

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Postby mrgalleria » Mon Oct 02, 2006 3:20 am

Aloha
Sorry I have not been around for a while.
I have made some changes on the assembly of the generator H3 unit. Now I just run one 5/8 heater hose from pipe at muffler (leaving one side capped) to water reservoir. I use 3/8 pipe, which works well with 5/8 auto heater hose. No heat problems with the hose. I have run the generator several hours without any failures. I am sure it is increasing performance but no tech info is available as the generator is currently being used on a jobsite.
I have also installed a unit on a chevy 1 ton van with 350 cu. in. and throttle body carb.
I am using 4 oz. sulphate of ammonia per gallon of water. The sul. of amm. was purchased at Ace hardware for $8- 20 lbs. 4 oz. cost $.10.
Again, sorry, no tech info yet. I am currently testing the durability of the unit.
Will post more info and photos when possible.
Bill
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Postby dingodog » Sat Oct 21, 2006 12:56 am

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Postby mrgalleria » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:48 pm

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Postby Looking In » Thu Nov 02, 2006 9:34 am

To all who has been keeping this thread alive. I would like to say thank you for all the encouragement to keep moving forward. I have received allot of emails on the urine system. I've been concentrating on Bob Boyce's series cell for the truck and Installing. Now to get back on topic.. Questions are as follows.

1. Have I ever measured the PH of the urine?
Answer.. I never thought about it. But I did take the time to locate the correct strips and measure the pH. The paper having a pH range from 4.5 to 8.5. The pH paper has color changes in increments of .5 pH. The urine pH is that you immerse the tape in the FLOW of the urine. Do not urinate in a glass or cup and then immerse the tape! The pH readings can change. The urine pH should always be less than the saliva pH to insure the kidneys are eliminating any over acidity. Now check your saliva.

With your thumb and first finger draw out approximately 3/4" of tape out of the pH paper dispenser and remove it by cutting the measured length of test tape along the serrated edge provided on the dispenser.

While holding the tape with your thumb and first finger by one end of the tape, gently press the other end of the tape against the tongue long enough to obtain a momentary liquid saturation of the tape. Then remove the tape from the tongue and notice the color change. Compare the change of color with the colors displayed on the tape dispenser and notice what pH number is indicated by the color chart thereon. Do not wait too long to make the color comparison because the color may start to change in time due to exposure to the air.

Now here is the interesting part.. Your can change the pH of your urine. It's by the foods you eat. When the concentrations of the urea is high your pH will be high. Increasing your pH will increase the ammonium ion. I have done this in several ways thru foods

Acidic Foods

* Corn
* Meat
* Beans
* Fish
* Fowl
* Most grains
* Coffee
* Plums
* Cranberries


Very Acidic Foods and Supplements Include

* Eggs
* Liver and other organ meats
* Gravy
* Broth made from bones or other animal parts
* Wine
* Yogurt with active cultures
* Buttermilk, including buttermilk pancakes and biscuits
* Sour cream
* Most fermented foods and aged cheeses
* Some B vitamin supplements (or foods supplemented with B vitamins) can make your stomach more acid
* Hydrochloric acid supplements
* Digestive enzymes


Alkaline Foods

* Most fruits
* Most vegetables

Very Alkaline Foods Include

* Bananas
* Chocolate
* Figs
* Mineral water
* Orange juice
* Potatoes
* Spinach
* Watermelon
* Dandelion Greens
Will Post the other questions later I need to get to the shops.. I'm late
Rich (Looking In)
((((Is it really so difficult to tell a good action from a bad one? I think one usually knows right away or a moment afterward, in a flash of regret.)))) BOOM
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Postby dingodog » Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:37 pm

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Postby kumaran » Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:17 am

Regards,
Kumaran
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Postby mrgalleria » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:17 am

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