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OUPower.com • View topic - Pb/H2SO4 bat'ries.

Pb/H2SO4 bat'ries.

Have an Over Unity topic to discuss that just doesn't quite fit into one of the above forums? -Post your topic here! Maybe if it gets enough attention, we'll make a forum for it.

Experimentation + failures = knowledge and eventual success

Postby SeaMonkey » Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:32 am

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Postby mael » Sat Feb 16, 2008 2:30 pm

I did put another alum mix into a battery I'd done one previous transfusion of same in.

On the first charge with the alum mix I charged it to about 14.4 Volts. But the charger was still drawing a couple of amps! - Anyway, I let it discharge slowly with about a 6 Watt draw. The bulb was getting dim after three days so I decided it was a good time to charge it again, then change the mix for a new one.

I had it on my 'Russian' pulse-charger for a day and a half and got a bit impatient at the end as it seemed to take more current than it should of rthe size of battery and the time it was taking. - It's not as charged as it can be, but I took it off charge at about 14.4 Volts and left it to settle.

Four hours later it was at 11.8 Volts.

I put a 5 Amp load on it and the voltage soon dropped to 11.25 Volts - and stayed there. It's been going for an hour and is still at 11.24 Volts. If the bulb lasts four hours then it's acting like a new battery. But I think what will happen is that it will just slowly discharge with the voltage dropping in a straight line.

*

I went through my stuff and tried to find things I could make a pulse generator from. I've got the power semiconductors and can probably manage something resembling a sharp peak, but if I use MOSFETS (they're about all I can rely on for tens of Amps), then I'm doing it without a driver, so the cut-off will be something along the lines of a resistor to keep pulling the MOSFET down. I'll just try to find a power transistor which can overcome what might be a substantial current overcoming the resistor. :(

In my box o' bits I found an old (about 30 or 40 year old) 'low frequency therapeutic device.' I was hoping I'd find a measly couple of circuit boards with minimal components to effect a square-wave shocking machine. But unfortunately I found something more resembling a hand-made computer. It's got ancient old ICs and the circuit board is solid solder, and it is rather wonderfully made. - And it works! There go my plans for gutting it and wiring it up to a few mosfets on the output of my hefty capacitor bank.

I seem to recall I have a blue-LED unit from a shop display which runs of two 1.5 Volt AA cells which I can adjust the frequency with a bit of applied torture. But even then I'm not sure it'll be easily coupled with my motley assortment of out-of-date and obscure components.

Ho hum! I saw a transistor pulse generator on "alldatasheets.com" on one of their spec pages so I'll try to find it again. I seem to recall it isn't hard to make, and uses three transistors - one being a PNP.
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Postby redriderno22 » Sat Feb 16, 2008 4:11 pm

are you really in japan?
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Postby redriderno22 » Sat Feb 16, 2008 4:45 pm

hello mael,

you might want to try something else as a desulfator
ive made several of the smaller ones for lawn mower batteries and small car batteries but it just takes to long to do any good or i built them totally wrong....lol
ive been using a newman motor replica for desulfating my batts
the backspike it produces is hard to nail down because it happens so quickly but i estimate it to be between 150 and 300 volts, and since i dont have an o scope no way for me to be sure. at least my milti-meters give me an idea.
but using the motor and my special mix of chemicals i have given my golf cart a whole new life!!! :shock:
before i took an intrest in renewing batteries my cart would only last about 15 min just enuf to get me to my mail box and back.
now it lasts for aprox 4 hours depending on what im doing with it, and it keeps getting better! it seems the more i use it the better it holds a charge!
the neat thing is that the batts in the cart were made in 1999!!
now i diddnt start with the cart batts, i needed to see if it would destroy a normal batt.
so i found a batt in the back of a friends car and asked if i could take it, he said sure its no good!, i couldnt see how since it was still wraped in its origional packing. the date code on the tag was from may of 02 and by the looks of it, it was still "new".
so i took it back to the shop and put it on a trickle charge for about 2 days
by the way its voltage before i put it on charge was 6.2!
after i took it off charge and let it settle its voltage was 12.6, not great but not bad, its sg was low 1100 so it was no good at all.
so instead of trying to put it to use in a car i decided to use it with my other projects, one of them being the newman motor.
after i noticed the high voltage spike from the motor i decided to test the sg again and it seemed slightly higher 8) , thats when i started reading about chemical and electrical desulfating.
long story short, that first test batt is now in my one ton truck for a long term test and so far so good, it doesnt quite have the cca for the truck but it will still start it when its 10 below!

sorry about the rambling, matt
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Great Story!

Postby SeaMonkey » Mon Feb 18, 2008 4:59 pm

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Postby redriderno22 » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:29 pm

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Additives and the Newman Motor/Generator

Postby SeaMonkey » Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:14 am

I did try some additives years ago - the Sulfonic Acid sulfation remover and Urea - but back then I didn't know about desulfating or charging with pulses. Therefore, no positive results were obtained.

Since I've learned about the desulfator circuit I've built four of them, in varying power levels, and found them all to be very useful.

I haven't used any additives in the Lead Acid batteries at all, just distilled water when they were dry or low on electrolyte. My intent was to first see if the desulfator alone would produce any positive results.

So far the results have been spectacular. I've rejuvenated ten or eleven of the Gates cells which were completely sulfated after several years of not being used. Two of the failures had internal resistance paths (not shorts) and have not responded favorably. Possibly there are dendrites on the negative plates - I'll keep trying to get them back to life from time to time in hopes of eventually seeing some progress.

I also have a Panasonic 6 Volt, 2.4 Ampere Hour that I acquired in 1988 badly sulfated. Over the years I've charged it in the conventional method and it has worked with a transistor radio fairly well. Early last year I opened the top to access the vent/fillers and added distilled water then tried the desulfator. It has responded very well indeed and is getting better as I use it more.

Next I need to get some auto batteries or motorcycle batteries to try.

I use my lowest power desulfator as a charger for my NiCd and NiMH cells too and it works exceptionally well. The cells charge quickly and very equally.

OK, I did some checking of the Newman motor and find it very interesting. I've never seen this sort of motor design before and am eager to construct one with electronic pulse switching commutation instead of the mechanical commutation. I'll wind the coil with much less inductance in order to operate it at a lower voltage and experiment with a slightly different configuration.

The principle of the motor seems easy enough and is very similar in operation to a solid state shunt switching supply that produces high voltage spikes (inductive kick) at the output.

Tell us about your motor Matt. Is it the high voltage version with the segmented commutator?
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Postby redriderno22 » Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:29 am

my motor is as simple as i could make it.

i started with a 3" PVC coupling drilled 2 holes in the middle to accept the bearings i found at the hardware, with an althread rod.
next i put the rod and bearings in the coupling and attached the magnets to the shaft, i started with neos but weak ceramic mags work better,(less coging),
instead of using magnet wire i had a roll of 18 awg multi strand wire, cut out about 160' and started winding around the coupling.
making sure i used the same amount of turns on the top and bottom half of the coupling.
my comutator is just a wire and a piece of tape on the shaft of the motor.
nothing spectacular.
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Postby redriderno22 » Sat Mar 01, 2008 11:11 pm

Did you guys fall off the edge of the earth??
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Postby redriderno22 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:17 am

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Postby mael » Thu Apr 03, 2008 4:45 pm

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Postby redriderno22 » Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:13 pm

good to see your still with us mael!

I thought you disappered :roll:
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12V 180Ah

Postby Palic » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:36 pm

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Postby redriderno22 » Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:59 pm

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Postby Palic » Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:33 am

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