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[kevinsatterfield]

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[kevinsatterfield]

[kevinsatterfield]

[AlaskaStar]

[kevinsatterfield]

[kevinsatterfield]

[kevinsatterfield]

[kevinsatterfield]

[AlaskaStar]

I just Got back from Anchorage.....

What year is your truck?

Secondly, fuel pressure is ok, then connect pressure gauge, turn key on, then off, wait 2 seconds, repeat, and get the fuel pump to prime to maximum pressure. turn key off, and watch the gauge. if the pressure is continually dropping, then you most likely have a leaking injector. in EXTREMELY RARE CASES, the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm will break down, and the fuel will come out the vacuum line to the intake. remove this line, and see if there is gas spewing out of it.

Your truck is OBDII, I think you said, then do this:

Turn key on/off in quick succession 3 times. on the 3rd try, keep the key on, and the check engine light will flash the codes say a Code 15= 1 flash, pause, and then 5 flashes, very long pause, and 1 flash, pause, 5 flashes, very long pause.....get the picture?

Chrysler is the only one to do this with their OBDII systems.

If your pressure is leaking down, replace the spark plugs with new ones, and while the plugs are out, disconnect ALL fuel injectors from the electrical harness, and crank the engine over (Spark plugs removed) with your throttles at WIDE OPEN. this will "Blow" the Liquid Gasoline excess from the cylinders. install new plugs. reconnect injectors (electrical plugs on each) and start engine immediately. engine SHOULD RUN. if it does, but runs like crap, let it idle for 10 minutes, shut it off, and immediately remove all the spark plugs. find the one that is either the "Wettest" with fuel, or the "Blackest" with soot. this will tell you and verify the possibility of a leaking injector.

Let me know, I have had a couple of these crank-tankerous beasts in my care, and I got to clean them up.
They are still driving......

AlaskaStar

[kevinsatterfield]

hey Star, how long shuld the preasure guage hold preasure? say 1 hr er 2 hrs or all night? its been about 3 hrs and the preasure gauge has dropped by 15 lbs.

[AlaskaStar]

15 PSI?

Ok this is typical of a jammed injector by debris. this is also typical of a vehicle that is hard to start after sitting for several hours after a shut-down. the injection pressure (and resulting volume of fuel) dumps into one cylinder, resulting in a flooded condition. NAPA Machine Shop here locally has a VERY NICE injector cleaning machine for electronic fuel injectors, cost is $36 Per injector....New injectors at $86 Each....makes it feasible. this usually works for symptoms like this. sometimes though.....it doesn't.

I am grasping at straws here, I have no list of symptoms past, but only a NO-START condition with good cranking, and spark. I haven't a clue of even the year, or engine size, other than OBDII (FEDERALLY MANDATED in ALL 1996 and NEWER Vehicles!!) and Gasoline Powered and Dodge.....

So any information you could volunteer here would more than certainly help out.

a 15 Pound loss in 3 hours is NOT good news. this pressure is going someplace, and finding it is going to be very important. I make sure that the pressure at least holds overnight. if it won't do that, then I start at the most likely places for the culprit (fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injectors, Fuel Pulse Damper....etc....etc...) to verify the fuel pressure regulator is working proper, follow these easy steps:

pressurize fuel system.

remove return line from fuel rail at the "Disconnect Point". - Note: Some fuel will drain out. after initial fuel drains out, shake the line, to remove anything else liquid. affix a hose to the line from the regulator (from the regulator at the engine heading back to the tank) and put it into a plastic bottle, the L.D.P.E. Soda bottles work well for this. any fuel that fills the bottle at this point in the next 8 hours denotes leakage from the pressure regulator. if there is nothing at this point.....then.....

depressurize the system, and install a FUEL RATED BALL VALVE in-line with the main pressure feed line to the fuel rail. pressurize the system (cycle the pump) and check for leaks. make certain the pressure is at specification. close the valve, and watch the gauge. if it still drops, you have leaky injectors, and the process of elimination is almost over.

if the injectors are leaking, remove fuel rail (as per service manual) remove all injectors, get them tested, cleaned or replaced. at the same time, it would not hurt to clean the fuel rail, and the manifold, replace all injector o-rings, and fuel pressure regulator, and any vacuum lines that look "Iffy"-per say. re-assemble, and replace all spark plugs at same time. wet plugs DO NOT FIRE. extremely fouled plugs will not fire easy either. DRY & CLEAN plugs will fire proper, and this is necessary, in a pinch, I have used a Bernzomatic Torch to "Burn-Off" the residue and any fuel. to do this, you need a plug socket, a bench vise, and the torch. remove the rubber "anti-break" rubber insulator from the inside of the plug socket (the thing that attaches to the ratchet for removing plugs-has rubber insulator inside to prevent breaking the plugs) and clamp this in the vise. remove plugs from truck, and install the plug in your plug holder. using the torch, heat the plug electrode and ground strap to cherry hot, the crap, and fuel will burn of with little (I think they are like miniature- micro- fireworks) sparks. allow the plug to cool. Or....be like my dumb brother, and have 3rd degree burns to his fingers from a severe case of "macho-ism".

I hope this helps. this is easy stuff, and If I was working on this, I would have it narrowed down in a matter of 1 day.

Please volunteer more information. I can't help too much other than generalities without anything specific to go by.

AlaskaStar

[kevinsatterfield]

[AlaskaStar]