Hardcore Information

[AlaskaStar]

Ok, I am starting this post, because I see a lot of trial and error, and let's self moderate this one.

Please only post hardcore information to help out, and put the theoretical stuff in the other threads.

Be BLUNT and right to the point. If you are incapable of reading, or do not understand, I suggest using the search feature or Google to find out more.

So here's the first shot.

I see a LOT of people who experiment using SS of different grades, and yet still end up with murky water.

Let's look at the basic elements here shall we?

Stainless Steel (SS of any grade) is NOT a pure element. It is an ALLOY of several DIFFERENT things.

So the basics of electroplating come to effect here. The ones that electrochemically dissociate the easiest are the first to leave the alloy bonds. After that, the next group will leave, and the next and the next. All polluting the water. Now when this is all done, you are left with the primary base metal, which in many cases ends up being NICKEL.

I have discovered that you can use something as simple as a t-shirt material to sandwich the plates, and for the super daring, nylon stockings. Now these systems are put under a vacuum. The vacuum draws the HHO out from between the plates. The vacuum pump is the first stage of compression for storage/ flow.

It's no secret that a vacuum will increase the internal efficiency of the cell because it removes the gaseous resistive layer of hydrogen and oxygen bubbles that form on the plates. Hydrogen and Oxygen are NOT conductors, they are insulators.

For those that seek to have the highest amperage and the lowest voltage, I suggest using a PMA alternator, and a full bridge rectifier on each segment of the TRI-Phase to rectify it to straight DC.

Now using a PMA is important. As the rotor turns it excites the field, which is now regulated by FIELD TENSION. The field tension is regulated by the internal resistance of the cell. Once the internal resistance is overcome, the voltage (whatever it may naturally be) will self adjust according to the temperature and electrolyte level/content. The remainder of the field is converted to the coveted AMPERAGE. I have a 2KW unit. It works just fine. I can connect to a 6 volt battery and it self adjusts to 6 volts for charging. 8, 12, 16, 24, 36, 48, whatever. After it overcomes the initial resistance the rest is converted to amperage.

It takes me 4 hours to convert an alternator to PMA.

DO NOT use a PMA on a fuel injected vehicle. The amperage will FRY your PCM. On the isuzu models, the TCM (Transmission Control Module) will fry out, and the ECM will remain intact.

I hope this helps anyone who is looking for blunt answers. It's basic and all can be validated.

AlaskaStar

[mos68x]

Would a PMA work to convert all voltage past 2VDC into amperage? or is it only 12VDC and above? If it will work for 2VDC then that would be perfect for what I need rather than fooling with a step-down transformer.
Can you tell me how to convert an alternator to a PMA one? If it works on the new ones and I need more amperage, then I'll buy one of the 200Amp ones and convert it to a PMA.

[AlaskaStar]

PMA conversion is simple.

You will need to disassemble the Alternator. REMOVE THE REGULATOR. THROW THE REGULATOR IN THE TRASH.

Keep the Rectifier. You will need it for later.

Using a press, press the shaft out of the Rotor. Don't worry about squishing the slip-rings for the brushes, you don't need them in a PMA.

Now take the Rotor coil, and recycle it at your nearest recycle center. You won't need it. MEASURE the ID of the Rotor Hands (the fingers encase the coil...) Measure the DISTANCE between the Rotor Hands (inside where the coil was. Measure the shaft.

Order a Neodymium Magnet to fit with about 1/4 inch to spare around the shaft.

Place Neodymium Magnet inside rotor hands. Press shaft back in. Attach Rectifier to Stator coils, and reassemble alternator.

I usually go a step further, I CLEAN EVERYTHING. Looks like new when I am done. I grease the bearings, or replace with new bearings.

It's easy, but the pressing part is a bit tough. Some of them wont budge until you have about 20 tons of force on it (the press has a gauge showing number of tons of pressure exerted) then it will shoot out the bottom like a bullet, so watch your toes!!!


I have a 50 ton press that makes easy work of this and a steam tank for putting the parts into.

DO NOT STEAM THE STATOR COILS OR RECTIFIER!!!!

When you have done as many as I have, it takes a mere few minutes to nail out a Delco-Tron or Nippendenso. Takes longer for the parts to be steamed than it does to do the actual conversion to PMA.

AlaskaStar

[Jehu]

Grade N42 Neos can be easly found on the net quite cheap now. You can also find them bent into a curve so they might be easier to fit into an alternator. I have an AC induction motor sitting in the garage that I might have a crack at converting. never powered it up yet though.

I also have been thinking about using nickle as plates. It should work very well in base electrolytes like NaHO and KHO.

[mos68x]

[williamssteve]

[AlaskaStar]

[mos68x]

[AlaskaStar]

[mos68x]

[AlaskaStar]

[mos68x]

[mos68x]

[mos68x]

[AlaskaStar]