Need an opinion

[BroBob1]

Hi all,
I'm a beginner, but I'm game
I built a small unit out of a Maxwell House Jar(LOL ) with a reinforced lid (1/8" lexan glued on) and it has seven SS cells 1 7/8" x 3". After trying several configurations I now have it hooked up like this: +++N---. It's running about 12 amps and it puts it out pretty good Hydroxy, and it does not run too hot. I have it hooked up to a 1998 Suzuki Intruder 1500 LC Motorcycle. I'll tell you what! This baby gained some HP She's running very crisp I plan on building more but I had to get my feet wet. Also this is a GREAT website for us beginners, and I'm very inspired by Alaska Star I hope he can pull it off!
Regards, BroBob

[mkc1962]

[BroBob1]

[mkc1962]

BROBOB

here is a copy of a reply I did for another on the similar topic that I think may help you.....what you might can try first is to reduce your catalyst and try to draw less amps that way, But then you lose gas volume and still have heat buildup. more heat eventually means more amps. Series would be your best approach and play with the catalyst to find an amperage sweetspot that your charging system can deal with. Sounds like youve done lots of reading. Another approach on a carbed bike, with low ampearege avail, that might help some, is to do a vaccum drawn water vapor assist. THis could either be seperate, or incorporated as part of your cell. I beleive commonly referred to as the Archie blue approach. Anything at all that you do will give you some improved combustion and mainly cleaner/greener tail gas. Just dont tear up the bikes charging system to do more than your capable.


As for your cell plate configuration, all I have learned so far...and please if someone see's I am wrong dont hesitate to correct me...But if you were using say 7 plates, you would have each plate seperated from the one next to it roughly by 1/8". Many use weedeater cord as it is about that size (1/8") all 7 stacked back to back....On one end plate you have your v+ and on the other end plate you have your V-.....+///////-

ALSO for a true series config, the fluid between any two given plates is totally isolated from the fluid in the next two. However, many will drill about a 1/8" hole near the bottom of each plate for fluid equilization. You will lose a very small amout of efficency, but have the gains of 2v to each plate and thus gain on the heat problem side. If you do such. alternate the holes from plate to plate. what I mean by that is plate one bottom right, #2 bottm left#3 bottm right, etc. Fluid in said plates, including any foam that might be cuased due to improper conditioning etc, needs to remain below the top edge of each plates or you get a short and there goes your 2v division. I am sure youve read all of this here somewhere. Good luck, I am not far behind you in building my new cell. Right now I am still trying to decipher and fully understand the sensor tuning aspects and get full electronic data facts on said sensors. Unless all that can be successfully done, there is no point in building a better cell. its just I have beeen working too much lately and havent had time to car/hho tinker (yes I do have a very simple single cell that I test with)

I Hope this will help you.

[BroBob1]

Thanks mkc

[SeaMonkey]

[AlaskaStar]

BroBob1:

I have always believed in performance in a different way. When I was 8 years old, I had been driving tractors for 1 year. Old tractors, like the ones you see at tractor and farm equipment shows. Well I had been driving a 1954 Massey Harris Ferguson Pony. I was introduced to the Antique Power Club of Alaska, Branch 52 of the EDGE&TA (Early Day Gas Engine & Tractor Association) and we had a show out at the Museum of Alaska Transportation and Industry (MATI for short), and we were having a 'tractor race' but it was a race of a different sort....

Last one to the finish line without stalling wins.

So we would idle them down, back off the mags, tweak and adjust the carburetors, open the petcocks (for the Johnny Poppers), tighten up the brakes, toe in the front wheels (if yours was a wide, not trike front) and open the radiators, do everything possible to get these things slowed down further than they already were.

So with engines popping at around 50 to 100 rpm, oil pressure barely registering, we raced. The course was a straight line, only 1000 feet long. I came in last, which meant I was first across the line. That stunk.

It was the notion of base torque. Doing the most amount of work with the least amount of energy. Well as time went on, I purchased my own antique tractor, one year, I idled it way back, adjusted the distributor, and cranked the brakes up to 'barely moving' and won the race walking next to the tractor holding the steering wheel. The oil pressure gauge was showing 'ZILCH!!' and yet it still ran, the tachometer, which is mechanical, was showing only 40 rotations per minute.

So when you build your electrolyser, or any alternate energy system for that matter, think about it in doing the most amount of work for the least amount of fuel or energy expended. Go for the 95% efficiency factor, and let the rest go. Try for the least wattage to attain the most hydrogen. Aim for the most power, with the least amount of fuel.

This is where you will find this board to be aimed. Burning rubber off the tire? I am certainly not impressed. Driving 2 hours one way, dropping a 2 bottom plow into the soil and running full throttle for 10 hours, and driving 2 hours back on the same tank of fuel (in my case 5 gallons on my tractor) is what will impress me.

Running a car is great. Want to really go under the radar and make a serious difference? Power Generation, Stationary Power, Farm Equipment.

See Farm engines are built different. They are DESIGNED to be run at 100% load, full throttle for continuous abuse. Do that to a car/ truck engine, and it won't last for a lunch break. See now that is power, and engineering. If they could make a 100% electric farm tractor that could run full power for 20 hours, and recharge from the solar panel on the roof of the barn, and only switch out the battery packs when needed, That would almost guarantee a change in things.

What about a Stationary Power Plant that could power and heat a home for a month on a gallon of Gasoline, or Diesel? What about Hydrogen?

See Where this is headed?
You can have your electric car and drive it too, but it doesn't have to cost you a bazillion dollars in the long run!

AlaskaStar

[BroBob1]

I'm inspired by your replies, but I'm but a babe in this technology
I'm a very good listener and capable of making most anything. I have been welding and fabricating for 25 years and I'm a bit of a jack of all trades! Even with my very simple cell I'm getting positive results on the motorcycle, better power, increased fuel mileage, so I'm encouraged!
I'm hesitant about applying it to cars because I'm not quite sure how to do it? Whether you can get away with just the oxygen sensor extender or in the case of the AFR sensors, what to do?
I will be building more units and I will be building different types to fit in different applications and I will be listening to all of you that KNOW HOW TO DO IT. Please be patient with me if I ask a lot of questions, all of this air pollution that we have created over the years has gotten to me. I'm hoping to make an impact in my neck of the woods ( New Milford CT). I would like to help others in my area with what ever I learn. I'm not in it to profit, but rather to share with others, and to help others in these times of Grand Larceny
Does anyone have an opinion on what type of cell would be best for us newbies? Joe cell, Stan Meyer cell,Smack Booster, multiple plates? I'm all ears!
And I'm proud to have made your acquantance

[glenn_aircooled]

Have you seen the projects pages on this site?
here are some views that will get you thinking.....
I will start off with Chris's , I think its 80 plates unit, at the time
he thought it was great - but he learnt it could be better
http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_My_Pr ... &PageNum=7
-
Start at this page and skim through to page 11..........
Then read 2/3 down page on
http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_My_Pr ... PageNum=30
-
where you will see his test that found he was only getting 9 W / L /hr
[ calc... 540 w , 1 L , 60 secs.......or.... 540 W , 60 L itres per Hour ,
so 540 / 60 = 9 W / L /hr ]
-------------------------
Then see Chris's next unit starting on
http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_My_Pr ... PageNum=57
-
here you will see the slits being cut into 1/4 thick plates.
These are the slits to hold the plates.
They go along the bottom and up both Sides of the Plates.
in other words there are three of these plates sitting inside the box.
The plates are a slide fit , so that electrolyte will slowly migrate between plates.
You will only need 8 plates for your Motor Bike.
If you can use Potassium Hydroxide at 26 % solution with distilled water
by weight and make sure the gaps between plates are 3mm,
and plates have been Cross Hatch sanded - that they are 316 Stainless.
You should get a very efficient Electrolyser.
My unit is running at 2.98 W / L /hr.
And its got room for improvement.
http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_Other ... &PageNum=3
-
This unit has been modified to just seven cells and is running in my car .
The down side of this is the glue assembly causes impurities to contaminate
the electrolyte.
Glenn.

[BroBob1]

Upon looking at several cells hooked together like the Mason Jar units and you see the wiring going from + to - as the cells are connected together, my question is: what difference does it make if on each cell the positive can be either positive or negative and the negative can be either negative or positive? I'm confused! Bare with me

[glenn_aircooled]

Dont worry I'm persistent, would love to help out where I can.
Your comment about the..........

" what difference does it make if on each cell the positive can be either positive or negative and the negative can be either negative or positive? I'm confused! "...........
-
The object of the series cell is to reduce the voltage across any active part
to less than 2.1 volts [ 2 v maximum I like....]
you can do this by having seven individual containers with only two plates in each.
But this is Large and wastes Stainless steel.
The same effect can be had by forming seven individual Pockets
of electrolyte and joining them all together.
This way the " Neutral Plates " act as both dividers of different cells
and conductors of current to the next cell and Active plates
to produce Hydroxy " all at Once ".
Its a very efficient use of the Expensive Stainless .. I say Expensive because I guide people to use 316 Stainless if possible.
It gives a greater output.
I wish you could see the Comparison of Hydroxy output from an efficient Series cell
compared to a Parallel cell [ of greater than 3 volts each cell] when each are using the same power input.
Efficiency of producing Hydroxy is important if you want to improve things
in our world.
You can experiment - making Hydroxy and have some fun with it and not worry about efficiency but that is just the beginning. If you want to do
more then you need to make it efficient.
I am happy to answer this again if I have not covered what you wanted.
Glenn.

[BroBob1]

[chemelec]

[BroBob1]

[chemelec]