Testing 02 Sensors to fool Automobile Computer

[Pinhead]

The HAFC kit has seen very good results with about 60L/h on 4-cylinders and about 120L/h on V8's.

To tune the oxygen sensor, set your "box" up so it's input=output. Then, while driving, start leaning the motor out until you just start to lose power. DON'T GO LEANER once you start to lose power. At that point combustion efficiency begins to drop, manifesting itself in loss of power. That's as far as you want to go. Take a look at this power graph.



The "Targeted A/F Ratio" has generally been where the most efficiency is gained. Take note, however, that even if you get a good mileage increase from tuning the oxygen sensor, the ECU just may eventually negate your tuning through it's short and long term adaptive memory. You can "cure" this in two ways... The simplest is to address the "keep alive memory" in the ECU. You would basically put a relay in-line with the KAL wire so the ECU sees battery voltage with ignition on and crank, but severs the connection when you shut off the ignition. This eliminates the learning process. The other way to tune the ECU, is to address the other various sensors on the engine such as the MAF, MAP, CHT, IAT, and ECT sensors. Properly tuning these sensors will increase your mileage even further. I'll get you a link in a bit...

[james]

thanks a ton guys, youre really pointing me in the right direction
james

[Cap10]

[readyakira]

[BR_549]

Hell-o to the Group,
Cap10, I haven’t run into over heating or heavy Amp draw. My Booster through my Fire block and one way values is only about 2 ½ feet to where it goes into the Motor. One thing I do have to watch after motor is hot. At around 50 or 60 hitting passing gear, the Computer will go Rich. Then I’m left with good Hydrogen flow and Rich fuel going into the Motor. It takes longer after I back off the peddle for the motor to relax. Only once have I had to hit the Brakes to keep from running over the next car in front of the one I had just passed. Girlfriend was already looking for a Brake Peddle on her side. I have to give myself plenty of room when passing, just in case.
When my 2 EFIE’s come in and I’m working on everything. I plan on installing an over-ride switch, to shutdown the Hydro-Booster. Right now only way I can is to turn off the Key Switch.

[hydrocars]

[hydrocars]

[kumaran]

[Cap10]

Thanks for the feed back guys. Hydrocars, I found this information in a 2001 study for hydrogen use in transportation. For an internal combustion engine that is running on just hydrogen and oxygen the stoichiometric or best possible ratio is 34:1. Because of hydrogen’s wide range of flammability it can be leaned out as far as 180:1. But at this mixture your power out put would be around 85% compared to gasoline. Maybe this could help use figure out a good ratio for hydroxy.

I actually was able to design a booster that doesn’t have any heating problems. I used 4 cells set up in a series that are separated from each other by some dividers. The plates are 1.5â€

[BR_549]

In the long run Cap10, you may have gotten the best deal on your EFIE’s looking at the pictures plus the “two ports that accept multi-meter test leadsâ€

[readyakira]

If you are using a car with ODBII computer and have a laptop available, you may want to check out www.digimoto.com I bought the software from there a while back and use it frequently. I will tell you things like fuel trim, temps, rpms, all kinds of sensor readings as well as has a dyno built in. I don't trust/like the dyno part, but the sensor readings can be very usefull to see how the computer is changing your fuel injection and timing with the changes you make. It is also nice to be able to monitor coolant temp this way as it is much easier to read then a guage.

[jpact]

[Big-bubbles]

Hi guys,
I have been playing around with the O2 sensor...
As far as I can tell the ECU curve that the on-board computer uses only allows you to make a 10%-15% change in the total amount of fuel used.

At Wide open throttle the ECU done not even use the O2 sensor.
Some cars might be different.

This dose not mean you wont get better gas mileage by using an EFIE device but don't try to make major changes with the O2 sensor just set it so the ECU dose not know you have installed a booster.

If you try to go more than 15% the ECU will throw a code and not use the O2 sensor at all.

The pre programed maps inside of the ECU only allow a small change in the total amount of fuel used by adjusting the O2 sensor.

If you want to make large changes in fuel usage you should play with the MAP or the MAF.
This is what the computer uses to control most of the fuel used.

Some are getting the best mileage by unplugging the O2 sensor and making a MAP sensor adjuster or buying one.

These are called ... Dual Edge Map Sensor Enhancers. I have used them and they do work pretty good if you don't have a frequency modulated sensor.
Make sure you have a big booster to go with your Map device and or EFIE.

Oh I found a new guy who sells EFIE's that I think are better than the ones at eagle or at least he ships them faster. (The EFIE that eagle sells work pretty good but it takes up to 4 weeks to get one)

This guy has a two in one box with a relay to disable it if you turn the power off.................... $119.00. Mine got here in a week.
Single unit =$59.00

Good Dual Edge Map Sensor Enhancers are hard to find.
Somebody needs to start making these other than Protium.
I have been waiting 4 weeks so far and he still has not shipped my order.

.................. Good luck guys keep boosting ..............................

[Pinhead]

[Cap10]

Thanks for that info Big-bubbles I just hooked up a dual EFIE, I think it was from eagle but I’m not for sure. It only took about 4 days for me to receive it in the mail. I’m running a hydroxy booster system that puts out about 500ml to 600ml a min. My engine is a 3.0 liter in a 1990 300zx. I set the EFIE up to add .125 millivolts to the o2 sensors. Just in case any one is unfamiliar with the EFIE, adding volts leans out the fuel. I drove 200 miles with an average speed of 75 mph with the system on and I got 27mpg. I then drove another 200 miles with the system off at 75 mph and I got 23mpg. So this comes out to be about a 15% increase in mpg. I was expecting some crazy savings like I’ve been reading about like those guys getting 50% to 100% increase but it’s just not happening for me. Also I’m not sure if 500ML a min. is enough hydroxy to run a very lean mix on. Big bubbles what you are saying is that 15% is the max you can go on the o2 sensors? How much voltage do you add to get up to 15% with the EFIE? Also what amount of gas would a big booster put out?