Intel 3.0 GHz build for $555 - Shipping Included

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Intel 3.0 GHz build for $555 - Shipping Included

Postby Chris » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:50 pm

I spent the better part of 4 days coming up with this incridible Gaming PC build. It is by far the best build I have ever seen and trust me when I say I have looked everywhere. I had a budget of 1200 dollars to try to build 2 gaming PC's for my daughter and I. In the beginning I was faced with a nearly impossible task; but by the end of all of my research and long hours, I have managed to pull this "Diamond" of a build from the slurry of components that are circulating around everywhere.

If you would like to say thank you... even in a small way for my many long hours and hard work, please press the DONATE link at the top of my website and show your appreciation. If you have done your own digging, you already know how hard and grueling this work can be. To say I have had a constant headache for the past 4 days is an understatement. The hundreds of different configurations, combo deals, rebates, shipping fees, deals, and ratings were a nightmare. So here is my gem. I hope you like it!

If this build is received well I will do more! :) -Perhaps many more!

Please feel free to post my build that I worked so hard on. I think you will be quite pleased with it! It will only be good for a few days so pass the word on it ASAP! I also ask that you provide a link to my build thread when you post about this build. That way people can leave me feedback about it! Here's the build thread:
http://oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=21238#21238

Click Here to show your appreciation for this build with a small donation!

Click Here to add this build to your Newegg.com shopping cart now!

Please NOTE: The build price of $555 is dependent upon 2 successful rebates that equal $55 total. If you fail both of the rebates you will still only pay $610 (Shipping Included) for this build.

Also NOTE: You can put a XFX GeForce 9800 GT 512MB card into this build instead of the 8800 GT, but it will cost an additional $20. From the reviews so far it doesn't appear to be worth it, but the choice is yours. The 9800 card is linked below. Just add the Ram separately from my build and then replace the 8800 card with the 9800 card.

Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8400 - Retail
Item #: N82E16819115037

EVGA 512-P3-N801-AR GeForce 8800 GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail
Item #: N82E16814130318

OCZ SLI-Ready Edition 4GB Ram(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model OCZ2N800SR4GK - Retail
Item #: N82E16820227269

GIGABYTE GA-G31M-S2L LGA 775 Intel G31 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
Item #: N82E16813128078

Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
Item #: N82E16822136218

Antec Solo Black/Silver Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
Item #: N82E16811129018

Antec BP550 Plus 550W ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Retail (85% Efficient!!!!)
Item #: N82E16817371016

Click Here to add this build to your Newegg.com shopping cart now!

Here's the link to the 9800 card I promised for the additional $20. You do get free Call of Duty 4 with this card, so that's pretty sweet!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814150316

Click Here to show your appreciation for this build with a small donation!

Please feel free to post my build that I worked so hard on. I think you will be quite pleased with it! It will only be good for a few days so pass the word on it ASAP! I also ask that you provide a link to my build thread when you post about this build. That way people can leave me feedback about it! Here's the build thread:
http://oupower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=21238#21238

NOTE: It was brought to my attention that this build did not have a DVD Burner in it... sorry about that I was going to use my burner from my old system. Here is a link to a nice 23 dollar unit with free shipping!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6827136149
-Chris

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Postby AlaskaStar » Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:34 am

Ok.

X-QPac Case: $80

Two Dual Layer DVD+/-RW 60X/42X/60X with Lite-Scribe drives: $130 each

Sony Viao Board with 3.2Ghz Intel Duo-core: $5 at Government Surplus Auction

4 Gigabytes Ram: Free with main board.

4 Terabytes Hard Drive Space: $120 per drive and there's 4 of them.

Liquid R744 Cooling for the processor: Free used old junk freezer for parts.

Laser Printer: Free

Color Laser Printer: Free

Color Officejet HP 6500 Series: $63.99

Epson Stylus R220: $5 from idiot who buy and never use.

AGP Video Card (don't remember the brand), has 256 MB of video ram, and dual fans to keep video processors cold: $1 at GSA

Analog/Digital Input for Video Capture/Audio Capture with editing software: $45

Kensington Trackball Mouse for use with Solidworks-DS 3D: $1

Color HP Plotter, 60 inch, with paper: Free

Multi-Card Reader: $5 at local computer store

VHS INTERNAL COMPUTER Tape drive for input video for editing: $1 GSA

8mm INTERNAL COMPUTER TAPE DRIVE for input video for editing: $1 GSA

Thermal Monitors for processor cooling: $3 at GSA

I had to frankenstein TWO of the X-Qpac cases together to make it all fit. The processor runs ok at room temp...and then when the Refrigerant system kicks in, and I watch the temperature PLUMMET to negative 75 degrees....that processor really takes off in speed! It also makes a cracking noise!! I had to wax coat the entire board after assembly to prevent water condensation from frying the circuits. I also have a drip pan mounted in the bottom to catch the water. I get 1 gallon per week off this thing.

I have a kill-a-watt meter hooked up to it...normal draw 121 watts. Kick in the cooling to speed things up a bit...and the meter shows about 2400 watts. If I have the cooling system on and print to the laser printer, the circuit breaker pops. So I have the cooling system set on a relay to cut out when the printer draws power to prevent blowing the breaker. The printer draws 1389 watts alone for the corona wire, but is super fast and nice quality. The ink doesn't run/ blur in the rain/ wetness.

It does an ok job for a computer. The internet sucks. I have to drive to the city to get good internet. Wifi hotspots everywhere. Some of the best are at Pandemonium Books, and Kaladi Brother's Coffee. The bank has free wifi too.....but people always act weird when I go there to use the wifi. They even advertise WIFI HotSpot.

So this machine, from power-up to waiting for me to do something is 4 seconds with the cooling system charged up and the processor pre-cooled.

When using the standard fan which is mounted above the aluminum block on top of the processor for the refrigerant, has it's own backup standard fan/heatsink it takes 7 seconds from power on to waiting for me to do something.

Insane? yes. Frankenstein Computer? Yes. Fast? Yes.

The ability to PRINT to 5 devices at one time, with a different document going to each device and watching my nephew's eyes bug out....totally awesome!

AlaskaStar
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Postby Jehu » Fri Aug 14, 2009 12:19 am

Not bad.

I've stood next to some of the worlds best overclockers, watching them break world records. It's pretty exciting stuff.


Here's a few tips from their (and my) overclocking experience.

Use clear acid free nail polish to seal up the mobo. The brushes make it eaiser to fit the polish into little cracks and such, plus it's harder to see that the board has been tampered with.

Use closed cell neoprene foam as insulation. This stuff is great as it often comes with a sticky side that makes it easy to stick onto the boards. Also make sure to insulate the back of the boards.

Vasoline is really good to coat the socket and the pins of the CPU. Any condensation will be stopped with this stuff and you won't rust the pins.

Get good thermal contact.

Make sure that the base of your heatsink, water block, pot or cooling head is perfectly flat. You want a mirror finish on it. Lap the base with wet and dry sand paper, on a flat surface like a sheet of glass, starting at 600 grit up to 2400 grit the buff with a soft cloth. move the block in a figure of eight pattern on the stuck down sand paper. Use brasso in all the sanding and buffing stages. Line the finished base up to some grid paper and check for variations in the refelcted lines. They should be perfect.

If using a water cooling system, ALWAYS use only ONE kind of metal in your loop. Copper is always good.

Use a decent thermal grease. Artic Silver is probably the best brand. Though even toothpaste can be used for short periods of time. Make sure that the grease will never dry out. Some people have made their own using Diamond dust in a silicon lubricant with exellent results. Don't use too much. You only need to fill the microscopic gaps in the metal surface. Paper thin and even is what we are after.

In Phase change systems, a copper cooling head should be used as it has better thermal conductivity than Aluminium. Aluminium only has a place in stock coolers or DICE/LN2 pots as it's lower conductivity helps to guard against thermal swing. Also if you can keep the compressor cool this can also help drop the final head temps. A dual cascade system can get even lower, though at a massive power cost.

If you can, cool more than the CPU. If you are going for real low temps and need stability, cool the north bridge and southbridge, MOSFETS and maybe the RAM, though RAM doesn't need that much cooling. Air or water will suffice for that.

If you don't want to much around with insulation but want sub-zero cooling cheap, put the biggest heat sink you can on the cpu and submerse everything minus the optical drives, HDDs and PSU in mineral oil and then chill the oil. Mineral oil is non conductive and will cool everything. In this case, make sure that the chilled oil will flow through the components so that you won't end up with hot spots in your oil.
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Postby AlaskaStar » Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:05 am

On the contacts, dielectric grease works VERY WELL for the peripheral plugs. A tiny amount of corrosion or oxidation will slow down your computer because many times it will have to re-try before it gets the message to or from the device.

I use dielectric on ALL my USB connections as well as the SD/MMSD/XD card connections.

You can achieve some awesome speed out of your computer with a nice cooling system. The added bonus of cooling using a submersed liquid system is that it's uniform cooling, but at a fraction of the cost, and you are not likely to get dust jammed in the cooling fans, heat sinks, etc.

Keep it clean, keep your wires tucked flowing nicely, keep your connections good, and keep it cool.

Maintaining a clean file allocation table and directory structure is up to you, but my method is to put ALL the software on one drive, ALL the documents videos etc on another drive, have one drive set up specifically for the operating system and a separate partition for the swap file.

If you get really fancy, run duplex partitions. Like having the duplex partition for the software on the document drive, and the duplex for the document drive on the software drive. Now if one drive mechanically fails (and they will!!) you don't lose all your data.

AlaskaStar
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Postby Jehu » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:59 am

yes, dielectric grease is the stuff to use but vaso is nice and cheap. conformal coating also works well for sealing up gaps between sockets and such and the boards.

Instead of having a few partitions and copying them over multiple drives, try running your drives in a RAID config. RAID 5 is great cos you have speed and parity built into the one array. RAID 10 is also handy for having the speed and redundency at the same time
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