fixaze Project Page 2

Shows a closeup of a cell and the brownish stuff on the bottom of it. This was only run a little over an hour using 3/8 tsp NaOH. .020" 304 ss

This cell previously was run with soda and seemed to have more brownish stuff in it. Looks like jelled iron oxide.

Pic showing BBQ tongs I bought for $2 at a discount store...magnetic ss...not 304ss This material is a lot heavier than the .018" material I used....though not as wide. Using 2 of these...and a couple of mayonnaise jars with plastic lids...some galvanized bolts and some wire and connectors....a couple of these cells could be made for $20 or so. The plates could be spaced using poly from bottles and 6 nylon ties could be used to hold the plates together. Need to use a good lube when drilling the ss though.

2 jars in series might be suitable for 1.8 L engines or less...3 or 4 jars in series should increase efficiency and generate more HHO for larger engines...or better efficiency for smaller engines.

Showing the underside of the bubbler with the poly baffle in place. This is right up under the lid...the rubber outlet hose that if a snug fit in the lid has Vs cut in the end to keep the baffle from closing off the HHO flow. Supposed to reduce water loss.

Pic showing the 3 plates conditioned for use.  The center one is scratched and then punched both directions...the side plates are scratched and punched towards the center plate...nothing done to the outside of them.

note:  plates are silver colored...the gold hue is due to taking the pic on a bright blue background

The punch marks tend to reduce the plate gap some from 1/8th".

I used 120 grit sandpaper...a coarse file (end teeth)...and then a spring punch.

Drilling thru this ss sheet is fun...can be done if you are careful not to use too much pressure (drill can get red hot and then has lost it's tempering/hardening) and use a good drilling fluid...have heard that olive oil is the best.

Another method might be to coat the outside of the 2 positive plates with a dielectric...but since there isn't any reason for them to be active...maybe not.  I have seen bubbles form on the outside of these plates...but they are not really active.

If not coated...they could make up for any coating or corrosion buildup on the + outer plates.

A theoretical graph showing the possible intersection between GAS PRODUCTION (blue arrow) and ALTERNATOR LOAD (red arrow)....relative to mpg improvements.

Increasing the amps used tends to reduce mpg due to the alternator load...while increasing the HHO generated tends to increase mpg up to a point?

The THEORY being that producing as much gas a possible might not be the best approach to increasing mpg due to the higher load on the engine through the alternator.  It is possible that where the lines intersect is how much gas you'd want to produce?  The sweet spot?

Also...ignition timing is important in that you want the highest cylinder pressure to occur after TDC...i.e....no pinging?  Too much HHO produced might even make the engine fire like a diesel just from compression.

So with a basic carburated non O2 engine you need to find the HIGHEST MPG CONFLUX point between the amount of HHO produced...the alt load...and ignition timing....and the leanness of the overall mixture.

Basic ignition timing might be set using a vacuum gauge so that you see the highest vacuum produced under typical cruise conditions.  This would tend to set the ignition so that you have the most efficient firing point.

A carb might be leaned out some by reducing the jet sizes...or possibly adding an air bleed?

Too much encouragement to go for high gas production rates instead of looking for the sweet spot and tweaking the sensors and so forth?

An engine designed to run on gasoline might not run so well on large amounts of hydroxy without fairly extreme modifications?

Notice:  theory only...

The graph...to be accurate would need at least (4) plots...not to mention valve timing issues...a 5th plot?